The Beautiful North Sikkim Picture Copyright : Sudeshnasarkar.blogspot.in |
We went to Gurudongmar North Sikkim on 11th nov 2013. We were group of 12 superly excited people craving for an adventurous journey and Gurudongmar was the best choice we had. Gurudongmar Lake, is situated at an altitude of 17800 ft and known to be one of the highest lake in the world. It is close to the china border and therefore there is a requirement of permit.
The journey to this lake is tough elderly people and people with breathing and heart problem must avoid the trip.
Our stay was at Lachen. There aren't many hotels or resorts in Lachen. Homestays are the only option if you are planning for a budget trip.we were told by our driver to be ready by 4 am in the morning . Every car starts their journey together in a queue to Gurudongmar. The roads are extremely bad ,takes hours to cover the distance, drivers need to stay in groups in case of emergency as the weather up at 17000 ft is very much unpredictable.
Note: The roads are monitored by the Indian Army.
The homestay we spend our night was below average ( we didn't have choice to look for variety of hotels )and the entire night we struggled with no power no hot water facility and not so good food. The temperature outside was below zero.It was freezing and the wind chill was killer.Even dressing up in layers was not enough.
At night we curled up in the bed all 12of us, somehow managed to stay warm. Hot momos were bought from the nearest army camp and a cup of local drink to keep ourselves warm. The night was indeed memorable.
When we got ready for the trip the next day it was dark outside. My feet and knee felt numb even with double layered socks and warmer.The journey started in the darkness.The winding roads were scary. The ice on the road can make any car skid easily.The ride was also bumpy because of the rocks and the waterfalls but the drivers in north Sikkim are extremely skilled. Also I would say hats off to the Indian army how they maintained sikkim roads clearing sudden landslides every now and then.
The early rays!! Picture copyright:Sudeshnasarkar.blogspot.in |
The darkness were intolerable and for the first time I prayed for the sun to appear. All the tourist cars started the journey in queue, signalling each other with utmost caution.
The car didn't have heater of course and the cold was increasing in every turn we were making.
As the sun appeared the snowy peak looked gorgeous . It was so close to us. Every mountain looked like Kanchendzonga.
Breaktime!! Picturecopyright:Sudeshnasarkar.blogspot.in |
At thangu we took a break for breakfast which was about 3-4 hour later.
Every car stops here. . I ordered Maggi. At -11 degree temperature hot maggi was the savior. A pack of Maggi at Thangu cost Rs 40 . I asked our driver if any fire place would be available. He was so kind that he gathered woods and made a little fireplace to warm up. I stood there all throughout the break. I was unable to tolerate the cold and wished to return back.The freezing wind and the sun made my skin burn and crack.
The cold desert-towards the lake |
From thangu it was another 2 hr journey.. At check post the military stopped us and checked if there is any old person or any kids. . Photography in some areas were prohibited as its the base camp of military. we crossed a barren land which almost lost like desert but surrounded by snow covered peak. There were few Yaks grazing. The landscape was beautiful and rugged.
The Gurudongmar Lake |
The sun was out by the time we reached the lake. The car was parked right near the lake. People often return back half way from Gurudongmar because of bad weather but for us I guess November end was the perfect time we choose for this trip.
Half of the lake was frozen except one part.It was beautiful. Words would fall short describing the place. Breathing problem only happens when you climb up or down the stairs to go near the lake or even if u get excited seeing the lake for the first time and starting talking or laughing too much. The best thing is stay like a zombie. Do not show your excitement as it will cause breathing problem.It is important that you climb 1 stair rest for a few sec let your heart beat slow down and then again you proceed.
Bring water along with you though you might find your bottles swelled up and water frozen still it might someway help you in need as there is nothing around only cold desert.
we spent 15 min near the lake nobody is allowed to stay there more than that. Soon the driver started calling everyone back to the car. Saying goodbye to the lake and with beautiful memory of the entire scenic journey we returned back to Lachen.
Our next stop was Dzongu. A lepcha village in Sikkim.
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