Tuesday, December 6, 2016

Jaipur Tour Sightseeing Part2

Part1: Jaipur Trip/Chowki Dhani Rajasthan.


Rajasthan have always been in craze among foreigners all over the world. I must say everyone whether in India or Abroad must visit Rajasthan once in their lifetime. You will get to experience the life of Maharajas only here.

At 9 in the morning RTDC bus  was waiting right outside our hotel for Jaipur sightseeing . The guide introduced himself and gave few information about the entire day tour. Our bus was packed with  excited foreigners who were eager to see palace forts and of course a  an elephant ride. The bus started its journey right on time and the first heritage we crossed was the Hawa Mahal.
Hawa Mahal -The wind Palace
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                                       Hawa Mahal also known as the Palace of Wind:
It was a brief stop here. The place looks beautiful at night. If you plan to do some shopping from Jaipur's famous Shopping area, you will come across Hawa Mahal.  There is nothing to see from inside so after taking few snaps we were off to Birla Mandir
Birla Temple
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Birla Mandir: This Lakshmi Narayan temple is made up of marble.Photography is not allowed inside the temple.There is a lush green walk which has been well maintained. You won't get much crowd here and therefore it takes hardly 30 min to visit  this place. There are few souvenir shops located outside the temple but the price is extremely high.


CityPalace
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City Palace: The main attraction of Jaipur is the beautiful City Palace.The palace is beautifully painted 
Diwan E khas Hall -  A special hall for private visitor of Mughal Emperor. The artwork and stunning architecture has been maintained well.  The museum  contains some excellent historical artifacts like clothes jewellery weapons and a huge water jar called Gangajali used. The portion of city palace is also a five star hotel.




Jantar Mantar Jaipur ,was built in 1734 and considered UNESCO world heritage site  . It has various astronomical devices which works perfectly even today. This  place I must say proves how  advance technology was in India even it that time period. It has a huge sundial,one of the largest in the world.
Jal Mahal
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Jal Mahal - Unfortunately the bus stop here for few minutes only for photographs.The palace is in the middle of Lake Mansarovar and visiting the palace is not allowed. Some parts of the Mahal is submerged in the water.  


Amer Fort: 

Sheesh Mahal or the hall of Mirrors is a part of Amer Fort. It requires a little hiking. You can also get a ride on elephant to reach the fort. You can hire local guide  who charge around 200-250  INR (bargain) or get yourself  an audio guide. The audio guide is available in various language and makes it easy for people traveling  from different parts of the world. The mirrors in the sheesh mahal is etched on the wall  some 300 years ago and a little light from certain corner makes it lit up like stars. 
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Jaigarh Fort: This place has a huge cannon on wheels. The fort is in the top while the Amer fort is in the bottom.The Surang /canals ( hidden roads )shows the unique defence system of the rajput. The entire city can be seen from the fort. 






Nahargarh Fort: Built in yellow sandstone and located on the  edge of aravali range we had to walk up the steef cliff to get the spectacular view of the entire pink city. The archietecture here is mixture of Indian and European style.By the time we reached the fort it was afternoon and so we had our lunch at Durg Cafe inside the fort.


By 7 pm our tour ended and we reached Hotel Gangaur.

Helpful Points

  • A full day  Jaipur tour by RTDC cost 300 Rs per person.-14 seater Non Ac Bus.
  • Buy Composite ticket  for Amber Palace Nahargarh fort Hawa Mahal  @  Rs 70
  • Free entry at Jantar Mantar
  • City Palace -75 Rs per head Plus 75 for Camera.
  • Jaigarh Fort - 35 rs per head plus 20 rs for Camera.
  • Lunch at Durg Cafe -Nahargarh fort at 1.30 pm. Thali Nonveg -250 and Veg 150.
  • The best time to visit Rajasthan is from October till March. 
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Saturday, November 26, 2016

Memories of Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim

The Beautiful North Sikkim
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We went to Gurudongmar North Sikkim on 11th nov 2013.  We were group of 12  superly excited people craving for an adventurous journey and Gurudongmar was the best choice we had. Gurudongmar Lake,  is situated at an altitude of 17800 ft and known to be one of the highest lake in the world. It is close to the china border and therefore there is a requirement of permit.

The journey to this lake is tough  elderly people and people with breathing and heart problem must avoid the trip. 

Our stay was at Lachen. There aren't many hotels or resorts in Lachen. Homestays are the only option if you are planning for a budget trip.we were told by our driver to  be ready by 4 am in the morning . Every car starts their journey together in a queue to Gurudongmar. The roads are extremely bad ,takes hours to cover the distance, drivers need to stay in groups in case of emergency as the weather up at 17000 ft is very much unpredictable.
 Note: The roads are monitored by the Indian Army.

The homestay we spend our night was below average ( we didn't have choice to look for variety of hotels )and the entire night we struggled with no power no hot water facility and not so good food. The temperature outside was below zero.It was freezing  and the wind chill was killer.Even dressing up in layers was not enough.
At night we curled up in the bed all 12of us, somehow managed to stay warm. Hot momos were bought from the nearest army camp and a  cup of local drink to keep ourselves warm. The night was indeed memorable.
When we got ready for the trip the next day it was dark outside. My feet and knee felt numb even with double layered socks and warmer.The journey started in the darkness.The winding roads were scary. The ice on the road can make any car skid easily.The ride was also bumpy because of the rocks and the waterfalls but the drivers in north Sikkim  are extremely skilled. Also I would say hats off to the Indian army how they maintained sikkim roads clearing sudden landslides every now and then. 
The early rays!!
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The darkness were intolerable and for the first time I prayed for the sun to appear. All the tourist cars  started the journey in queue, signalling each other with utmost caution. 

The car didn't have heater of course and the cold was increasing in every turn we were making.
As the sun appeared the snowy peak looked gorgeous . It was so close to us. Every mountain looked like Kanchendzonga.
Breaktime!!
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At thangu we took a break for breakfast  which was about 3-4 hour later.
Every car stops here. . I ordered Maggi. At -11 degree  temperature hot maggi was  the  savior. A pack of Maggi at Thangu cost Rs 40 . I asked our driver if any fire place would be available. He was so kind that he  gathered woods and made a little fireplace to warm up. I stood there all throughout the break. I was unable to tolerate the cold and wished to return back.The freezing wind and the sun  made my skin burn and crack.
The cold desert-towards the lake


 From thangu it was another 2 hr journey.. At check post the military stopped us and checked if there is any old person or any kids. . Photography in some areas were prohibited as its the base camp of military.  we crossed a barren land which almost lost like desert but surrounded by snow covered peak. There were few Yaks grazing. The landscape was beautiful and rugged.
The Gurudongmar Lake


The sun was out by the time we reached the lake. The car was parked right near the lake. People often return back half way from Gurudongmar because of bad weather but  for us  I guess November end was the perfect time we choose for this trip.
Half  of the lake was frozen except one part.It was beautiful. Words would fall short describing the place. Breathing problem only happens when you climb up or down the stairs to go near the lake or  even if u get excited seeing the lake for the first time and starting talking or laughing too much. The best thing is stay like a zombie. Do not show your excitement as it will cause breathing problem.It is important that you climb 1 stair rest for a few sec let your heart beat slow down and then again you proceed.

Bring water along with you though you might find your bottles  swelled up and water frozen still it might someway help you in need as there is nothing around only cold desert. 
we spent 15 min near the lake nobody is allowed to stay there more than that. Soon the driver started calling everyone back to the car. Saying goodbye to the lake and with beautiful memory of the entire scenic journey we returned back to Lachen.
Our next stop was Dzongu. A lepcha village in  Sikkim.

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Monday, November 21, 2016

Birds Of Gujarat -Jamnagar


The best time to spot flamingos is in the evening. 
Knobbed Billed Duck

Winter is here and so are the birds. Jamnagar is known to be birder's paradise .Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary is famous among bird lovers ,but one can even spot them near salt pans, water reservoirs and Lakhota lake.


Birds of Gujarat
National Bird Of India -Peacock

Birds of Gujarat-jamnagar
Lesser Flamingo
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Lesser Whistling Duck
Gujarat Birds
Red Napped Ibis






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Thursday, November 17, 2016

Mount Abu Hotel -RTDC Hotel Shikhar


RTDC MOUNT ABU
Hotel Shikhar  Mount Abu
Mount Abu is the only hill station close to Gujarat to enjoy  weekends.Our visit was during Diwali (Oct 2016) and the rush of the tourist made everything - From hotel booking to hiring vehicles for sightseeing extremely pricey. We didn't have any options to choose hotels as every hotel was packed with tourist and there tariff was insane. Luckily we got rooms at RTDC  Shikhar Mount Abu - A budget Hotel
The location of this hotel is wonderful.Away from the  mad crowd yet close to the market area and the Nakki lake. We stayed at Hotel Sikhar for 2 nights.
  •  As the name suggest Hotel Shikhar-From Nakki lake you need to climb up!!! (You will have good leg exercise)
  • The Basic standard room during festive time or peak season cost around 2300 INR per night  inclusive tax. It also includes veg/non veg breakfast and dinner buffet.
  • The restaurant have their own bar facility.
  • The property is well maintained by RTDC. The staff were  polite. For sight seeing enquiry you can visit the reception area.
  • Hotel rooms does not offer magnificent view of hills.There are cottages available too.
  • The property  do not have  power backup but it is equipped with water heater. The bathroom was spacious. Though the room was small. We didn't mind adjusting a bit as the entire time we were strolling in the market area and to the lake.
  • They have their own little Rajasthani dress material shop.
      I would rate this hotel 3 out of 5.


Here are link of some more hotels which I found very close to the lake and the market area.

Hotel Lake Palace
ChaCha Inn Hotel
Hotel Hilltone
RTDC Hotel



Tuesday, November 8, 2016

Dwarka -Bet Dwarka Trip From Jamnagar

 24th September2016
Entrance to the Golden Kingdom


Backwater -Arabian Sea


Planned for Dwarka darshan on Sunday 24 th september . Dwarka is 140 km from Jamnagar and it is considered one of the important Dham  in Hindu Pilgrimage ( among the four). If you are travelling from any other cities make Jamnagar your base.There are trains available from Jamnagar and it usually takes around 3 hrs to reach Dwarka. Also there are cars available for you to hire. we decided to drive and visit the place and I think it was the best decision we took!
The road to Dwarka - the land and the vegetation gradually started changing. We could see more of  cactus than trees. One beautiful thing I saw first time is windmill. The entire road was lined with  windmill and it looked amazing. The road was  smooth and the journey was quite comfortable.




Dwarka
On the way to Dwarka

By 10 am we reach Dwarka. Our driver  told us to visit Bet Dwarka first as the temple closes by 12. So we decided to visit the main temple in the evening.
Dwarka
The emerald Blue sea -Bet Dwarka Island
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                                                                   Bet Dwarka:
 I didn’t find this place interesting. The boat ride was extremely scarely as it was a rickety boat carrying more than 50 people in the midst of the ocean and the ticket is 10-20 Rs each.So you can now imagine what kind of boat and journey you will have. There is no other option to reach Bet Dwarka. Next time if I visit Dwarkadeesh I will absolutely skip this part. The journey to Bet Dwarka in the scorching heat was extremely tiring and not worth anything.
The ocean was beautiful but again I couldn’t enjoy much as the heat was extreme and I could feel my skin burning badly. The passengers in the boat from the nearest village were extremely arrogant and if you are living in cities and do not have much experience traveling  wild  you may have hard time. Every temple in Dwarka ask for  donation  for food or water it is up to you  to decide.



Dwarka
The Gigantic Lord Shiva
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                                                                   Nageshwar Temple –
This was our next stop
It is an underground sanctum and suppose to be one of the self existent Jyotirlinga in the country.The main attraction is the 25 metres lord shiva in a sitting position and a perfect spot for tourist to take in innumerable selfies! 

 Built by T series company,   The temple is well maintained. The temple has a photo of Gulshan Kumar too. The place is little far from Dwarkadeesh temple and so you can have tough time getting autos here.


Dwarka
Rukmini Mandir
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                                                                     Rukmini Mandir -
This temple is situated at 8 Kms from Dwarka. This is in the outskirts of the city near the sea shore. As the story say that Rukmini was cursed by sage Durvasa  because of which the temple is situated outside the city and its because of this curse only, that the water in Dwarka city is salty.But for me  seawater is always salty and nothing to do with curse.


                                               Bhadkeshwar temple -
                                              Copyright sudeshnasarkar.blogspot.in
By 2.30 we were done with all the sightseeing. It was extremely hot and I was exhausted. The worst part was - the main temple was closed  and would open at 5 pm and we had no place to go.
Meeting the King of  Dwarka is not that easy you need to wait patiently.

Dwarka
Jagat Temple  Dwarka
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                                                      Dwarkadheesh Temple: 

Finally after waiting for a long time  the gate of Dwarkadheesh temple opened. The 'heat was so bad that walking barefoot was painful and it made me dizzy. But as Lord Krishna said "Pain or pleasure /cold or heat  they are fleeting.They come and go experience them patiently." so with all my energy and love for the Lord me and my husband I entered the temple  chanting  Dwarkadheesh Ki Jai. 

I was engulfed with my own thoughts. Staying in Mathura for years near Lord Krishna' Janmabhoomi and knowing him as natkhat Nandlal with Radha Rani( Stories from the locals) and then meeting him in Dwarka as King( co-incidentally am staying few hours away from Dwarka) made me realized how much Lord Krishna loves me.
At one point by mistake I chanted   Banke bihari Lal ki jai ( habit of Mathura)..n then  I remember no one calls him as krishna or banke bihari...Only Dwarkadeesh.
"My dear gopis, in order to increase your superexcellent love for Me, I have purposely separated Myself from you. I have done this so that you may be in constant meditation on Me.” -His message through Uddhava (Krishna book, Ch.47).
When the screen was removed -to my amazement Lord Dwarkadeesh statue looked exactly like Banke Bihari..
Sorry no photography !
After a good darshan  our Dwarka trip came to an end. By 6 pm we hit back for home.
Dwarka
Evening at Dwarka
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Note : Don’t wear anything short or rather don’t show your bare legs or you won't be allowed inside the temple and this goes for both men and women visiting Dwarkadheesh Temple.
  •  Carry umbrella /water - The mixture of sand the sea and the sun can be cruel.
  • You can skip Bet Dwarka -There is nothing much to see and the boat ride is dangerous.
  • Autos were very few in number. I don't know how people do their sightseeing.The best option is hire a car.
Do let me know your experience while visiting Dwarka.



For any travel related enquiry drop your mail @sarkar.sudeshna18@gmail.com or in the comment box below.



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Tuesday, October 18, 2016

7 Seas- NonVegetarian Restaurant in Jamnagar

NonVeg Restaurant in Jamnagar



This place is located in Teen Batti area.It is a part of President Hotel.If you are looking for a comfortable place to dine nonveg food with family this is the one you should visit. Weekends get extremely crowded and you may need to wait in a queue. When you are in a place like Jamnagar where you won't get any non-veg food restaurant ,this will be a heaven for you and you won't get much scope to complain.
We generally order rice or noodles with chicken as side dish. For starters we did try out kebabs few times but they were not up to the mark. It was little chewy and less  juicy.But yes you get Kebabs too both  Chicken n Mutton and also seafood .
I usually visit this place with my husband for dinner once a month just for a change. Again this is the only fine dining non-veg restaurant in Jamnagar.
Surprisingly I have seen many Gujarati people eating nonveg here and then claiming to be vegetarian.
Price is ok not very high and you won't be dumped with taxes. The quantity of food which they serve is little less compared to the price they charge.
2 people dining cost approx-800Rs incl Tax



Monday, October 17, 2016

Swaminarayan Temple-Jamnagar


Swaminarayan Temple is located close to Jamnagar Airport  on Jamnagar-Dwarka highway. Its a must visit place for people who are on there Saurashtra Trip.The place is huge and well maintained.The best time is in the evening to stay away from the bad heat in the morning & afternoon. Weekends are extremely crowded with people.The temple carvings are beautiful but it cannot beat Prem Mandir in Vrindavan.  There are 3 idols in the temple including Lord Swaminarayan.
Parking area is huge but still it can be tough during weekends.

Cleanliness is excellent.

Have queries about any trip ? Write your queries in the comment or mail me. 

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Visit to Barsana -Radha Rani Temple -Mathura

Radha-rani temple at Barsana



17th August 2014- Decided to explore the village of Radha Rani. It is about 20 km toward"Govardhan mountain. This place almost looks like a palace more than  temple. It is said that Barsana is the birth place of Radha Rani.It is located on the hilltop and you get the perfect view of Mathura.



Lathmar Holi - Firstpost Picture

Barsana is famous for Lathmaar Holi.The men from NandGaon comes to Barsana to perform pooja, it is here the  ladies hit the men with sticks and men protect themselves with shield. They exchange colors and enjoy the day dancing.
The road towards Barsana is very beautiful ( Mustard plant field) and you can definitely spot Egyptian Vulture here. The roads are not well maintained and so the scooty ride was bumpy. Winter is the best time to visit  Barsana, as the premises gets too hot and you need to climb a lot of stairs.




P.s. I never had  guts to visit these places during  Holi festival  even though I lived there.

Did you visit Mathura during Holi festival? Do share your story here how you attempt to manage the crowd and participated in the festival.

Monday, September 12, 2016

Iskcon Temple Vrindavan

 From my Journal ( 2014 Aug)




Vrindavan is full of temples !! Every nook and corner you will see a temple of  Lord Radha Krishna. Iskcon Temple is one of the tourist spot in Vrindavan. This temple is 10 minutes from Prem Mandir. When you are visiting Mathura Vrindavan make sure you have this temple in your list. I always tag Iskcon temples as temple for foreigners.Iskcon temple whether in Vrindavan or West Bengal is all about glitz and glam. Before entering we had to deposited our shoes,leather items. There is no entry fees for entering this temple.


Iskcon Temple Vrindavan
The Marble Structure

Almost all Iskcon temples are built using white marbles.  As we entered the main area I saw foreigners wearing Chaniya Choli  and dancing on the tune of Hare Krishna Hare Rama.  I was in a trance for sometime. I sat there and enjoyed the lovely spiritual moment. It actually refreshed me.  At 7 pm they had their evening aarti. Women of all age  danced and played various musical instrument.
Iskcon Temple Vrindavan
The main Temple


They have a canteen  where they serve pasta and pizza and various milk products ( it's not free of course). The temple opens early in the morning and in the afternoon it is closed.It opens again at 4.30 pm till 8.30pm.  Evening gets crowded and you can have problem parking your car. So it's better if you can visit it in the morning.Just close to Iskcon temple ,there is the famous Banke Bihari temple and Nidhivan but beware of the monkeys they are  real scary !

 Travel Tips:


From Delhi, Vrindavan is 185 km and takes around 3 hours . Take the Yamuna Express to shorten your journey. A stay at Mathura is a must if you want to do Mathura Vrindavan Agra sight seeing. If you are planing to visit Jaipur start from Delhi -Visit Agra Mathura Vrindavan  and then  Jaipur.  2 nights Mathura Vrindavan  and 2 night Jaipur is good enough. A whole day is need for Taj Mahal visit and an entire day for Vrindavan and Mathura Sightseeing. Hiring a car is a must for sightseeing or you might end up carrying your feet on your head!

Staying at Mathura is a good option .One of  my favorite hotel was Brijwasi .It is close to the Janmabhoomi. From Mathura -Vrindavan is app 12Km.

Friday, September 2, 2016

A Day at Jurong Bird Park:

March 5, 2015:

 From My Journal 

Excitement heightens as we enter the bird park

A very bright sunny day and suddenly Sagnik  decides to visit Jurong Bird Park.This was a completely out of plan trip. He skipped work !! We did not have any clue where the  park was and also its timings.  Without being lazy, we hurriedly searched on google and found the  direction.  Weekdays are relatively better to choose for this kind of trip as the crowds are less.Within an hour we got ready.  we somewhat managed to charge our camera (used power bank to speed up the process) and started our Bird Park Excursion

Our checklist:
  • Charged Camera
  •  Extra SD card  and battery (  It will drain out for sure)
  •  Power bank
  •  Water bottles – (it's pretty hot in the morning so we carried empty bottles and refilled it as needed)
  • Wore comfortable clothes –Shorts and tees. / comfortable  footwear  / sunglasses/ and sunscreen.
  • Carried umbrella as it rain often specially in the afternoon.
Transport to Jurong Bird Park:

From Jurong  (place where we lived) we took MRT (metro) and reached Boon lay station. From Boon Lay Bus stop we took a bus 194 to Jurong Bird Park.
The cheapest way to reach Jurong Park is by Metro and then by bus. Avoid any other way if possible.

A Little About The Jurong Park:

The park has around 400 species of birds and they roam  freely in the man made habitat.Visitors get close to them  or rather the less shy birds and reptiles interact with the visitors.

When I said interaction with birds and reptiles I meant this close !


At the point of entry we collected the park map.
Jurong Map
Busy With the Park Map

There are trams available but we decided to walk and enjoy the park at our own pace.
There are special facilities available like hiring wheelchair, which is free of cost, and stroller for toddlers.The later one needs to be rented.

Jurong Park Timings: 8.30 to 6.00 pm (cover it as much as possible)

Jurong Bird Park Entry Fee:

 We bought a composite ticket.  (Don’t buy single ticket it's a loss ) .You can buy 3 composite ticket or 4 …confused?The 3 composite ticket include entry to the  Jurong Bird Park, Entry to the Singapore Zoo and also the Night Safari.
The 4th composite ticket includes 3 of the above park and an Amazon River Safari.  We bought 2 tickets of 3 park as Amazon ride was under maintenance and  so we had to drop it. These composite ticket save a lot of money.  Each ticket cost SGD 98 for 3 parks and you need to visit them within 7 days or else your ticket would be obsolete.

We reached the park around 10am and got our ticket there was no queues.


Penguin Coast : Our First Stop !
The happy feets were kept in a glass enclosure. The place had African Penguins, Emperor Penguins  ,Humboldt penguins etc.The temperature outside was really hot and this place was such a relief.
Some of the  African penguins were roaming around  freely outside . We didn’t catch their feeding session as  we wanted to cover the entire park.


Flamingo Pool / Lake: 
 This was our next stop !

Flamingo Pool At Jurong

Heliconia Walk with Colorful Birds

Heliconia Walk

Dinosaur Descendant Birds:  

Jurong created a beautiful dinosaur descendant exhibit and keep some  flightless which includes ostrich, and emu  cassowaries and henceforth The 4th image is of  cassowaries.They are said to be the most dangerous bird on the earth.



Birds from Dino Descendant Exhibit
Lory Loft:  
In this part of the park you can feed lories.   $3 per cup is what it takes the bird to come up and perch on your head. They will be all over you. But it is not necessary to buy food. If you walk around the bridge they will come up and sit on you.One of the lory happened to get entangled on my curls.   This is the most cutest part of the park .Blue red green yellow  Lories  climbing your head shoulder arms  making your day memorable.










World Of Darkness : This place is about  nocturnal birds.Taking pictures with flash must be avoided here as it disturbs the night bird. Saw various kind of owl including  the snowy Owl here.Many people did take pictures but I wanted to maintain the decorum.

Waterfall Aviary :  
This place is a paradise. The birds roam freely here !  And the best part was  the 98 feet man made waterfalls. You need to walk around the rain forest to spot unique bird around the world. What a moment I had walking to this enchanted area. You will spot starlings everywhere, rollers feeding worms, Turacos variety of parrots, guinea fowl crowned pigeon etc. We were lucky as when we entered the water Aviary it was there feeding time as so all the birds were up close flying around everywhere.

Roller_Water Aviary
 
Birds in -Waterfall Aviary



The 98 feet Waterfall at Jurong
Guinea Fowl crossing the road at Waterfall Aviary


Birds from Window to Paradise
Window to Paradise :
 I have seen these birds in Nat Geo documentary film  -Birds of Paradise. Now I am seeing this right in front of my eyes. So you can imagine my reactions.
Here is the link of the  Birds of Paradise

 We missed all the show they had in the park. You cannot the entire park as well the shows. One or the other you need to let go.

By 6pm we were done with the tour ( at least that's what I think). My feet were killing me. By the time we thought to get out of the park it started raining. We sat near a small pool for some rest as well as the rain to stop. Saw beautiful Koi fishes and a very different looking turtle .

A white Turtle

Once the rain stopped we came out of the park with memories captured in our camera. :D

Do share your views about the park in the comment space below. I enjoyed a lot being a bird lover. Are you planning to visit Jurong Park anytime soon?

Chandaka Deras Nature Camp

দেরাস নেচার ক্যাম্প - চান্দাকা ওয়াইল্ডলাইফ স্যাঙ্কচুয়ারি বিস্তীর্ণ ঘন সবুজ অরণ্য, সুনীল জলরাশি, অদূরে ছোট পাহাড়, আকাশে টুকরো মেঘের আন...